One of my earliest memories is of the blue and white Willow pattern plate that sat on a shelf of my grandmother’s Welsh dresser. It was side by side with a heavy glass plate, with The Lord’s Prayer etched around the rim. Commonplace in those days, I expect, but I loved them.
I don’t know if it’s that memory, or my lifelong embrace of the sparkling colours of the sea, but I’ve always loved the simplicity of blue and white. Imagine then, my response, on arriving in Portugal and finding that so many of it’s buildings have been lovingly clad in blue and white tiles.
Porto? Well, that was just the icing on the cake! Stepping out of Bolhao Metro, I turned down Rua de Santa Caterina. Immediately in my vision, the Capela das Almas, a solid wall of blue and white. It was late evening and dark, so the church was floodlit. What a welcome! I knew right then that coming to Porto was going to be all that I had hoped for.
The road dips gently down, passing famous Cafe Majestic (pinch me, I really am here!) and into Praca de Batalha. I just stood and stared, and stared.
Hauntingly lovely Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
After a night’s sleep, it just got better and better! Well, you’ve all heard of Sao Bento railway station, haven’t you? It was just around the corner.
I wasn’t so sure at first about the Se, or Cathedral. It has the Rose Window and the sturdy pillars of my own Durham Cathedral, back home, but step into the cloisters and you’re in a magical world. Climbing to the Royal Apartments and viewing terrace, I couldn’t imagine ever attending to the affairs of state with such a view on hand.
The view from the terrace above the cloisters
Stepping in to a fragile and wonderful world
Those courtly days
A cherub or two
A few more?
And one by the window, ready to steal a peep
A room fit for a king
Even the ceiling is gorgeous
But nothing surpasses blue and white
Of course, it doesn’t end there. There’s the Carmo Church in the University Quarter, a tile wall that I adore in Rua das Flores, and many others.
Just a glimpse of the Carmo Church, behind the Lion Fountain
Lovely Rua das Flores
But I don’t want to wear you out. We still have to travel up the Douro together. There was no shortage of azulejos there either, and the most stunning scenery I’ve seen in some time. So do come back, won’t you? I’m looking forward to it.
Beautiful photos, Jo. Thank you.
Thank you, Lizzie. It was a “joy” being there. (sorry! couldn’t resist)
Nice one!! Brought a smile to my face.
Hi Jo, Lucky for you you’re a fan of blue and white. Porto is fantastic for azulejos and it looks like you got plenty of shots of some of my favourite places while you were there. São Bento station is amazing, isn’t it?
I kept going back for another look, Julie- amazing! We were just around the corner at B&B’s Porto Centro, and we took the train to Guimaraes too so plenty of opportunity. Many thanks for your RT. Appreciate it.
A great introduction into this city. The designs of the buildings are beautiful in the colors of blue and white. Looking forward to more of your posts here.
BE ENCOURAGED! BE BLESSED!
Unbelievably lovely, Francine- thank you! My husband said “you’ve got more photos than that?” but I didn’t want people to have glazed eyes.
I know what you mean. I love taking pictures and when I start it is hard for me to stop. Then I often can’t decide which to post. So you can never make me glazed eyed.
That’s a relief! I’ll get back on it, Francine.
WOW, I can’t believe that railway station, it is totally stunning!!
What an amazing place, I can see why you’ve fallen in love with it
I believe it started life as a monastery. Strange things like that seem to happen in Portugal. It’s part of the love affair.
So nice to see your enthusiasm, I’m glad you’ve enjoyed so much. Regarding São Bento station when you say “I believe it started life as a monastery” well, not exactly. It’s located where once there was a monastery (Mosteiro de São Bento de Avé-Maria). This monastery was demolish on the XIX century (it was the time of Liberalism and due to extinction of the religious orders, the property was confiscated by the decrees of 1832 and 1834, determining that it pass to the State after the death of the last nun) and the station was build on the early XX century, those lovely tiles are from the XX century by Jorge Colaço. Remains from the monastery are scattered in several museums, churches and other monasteries.
Thanks for that Fernanda. I knew of the demolition but didn’t want to go into detail, but you’ve very nicely saved me the trouble. I didn’t know that there were various remains from the monastery still to be seen though, so many thanks for reading and for leaving your helpful comments.
Gorgeous pics Jo. Hope you had a lovely time
It was superb, Suzanne. Definitely up to expectations. I’ve been admiring your Turkish adventures- look pretty good too!
Great photos. Thanks for sharing. I have a wall in my kitchen covered with blue and white plates that I collected over several years.
Bet they’re beautiful! I have plates around my Delft rack but the colours vary as they’re mostly holiday mementos. Thanks Judith.
It’s such a lovely shade of blue! And very beautiful any time of the day too. Just perfect
It could become an obsession, Meg. In a good way!
So, so beautiful. I admired the tiles too when I visited Lisbon – gives the city a unique feel to it.
Thanks Colline. Yes, they’re everywhere in Portugal but Porto must have the best collection I’ve found to date. (I’ll keep looking!) One of my regrets in Lisbon was not making it to the Azulejo Museum, but I’ll be back someday.
The artists must have been inspired by the gorgeous blue of the skies there, which you were fortunate enough to enjoy as well. I wondered if they put up the tiles then painted.. but it almost looks like they painted each tile and assembled after, mosaic style?? Just stunning.. blue is also one of my favorite colors. My mom has a set of the Willow blue dishes.. they’re just so pretty! xx
The history is quite fascinating, Smidge. I’ll share my Wikipedia link- it’s a good one.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azulejo
An excellent link!! Thanks!!
The first thing that popped into my mouth as if I were carrying on a conversation with you over these images was: “oh my gosh!” Just think of the work in creating these hand made and hand painted tiles adding such grandeur to the architecture. Absolutely beautiful. No wonder you were enthralled.
I can’t begin to conceive of it, Lynne. I’m strictly a “matchstick men” artist, but I know how to admire beauty.
Speechlessly beautiful!
You just have to love them, Len, don’t you!
My word, what beautiful buildings they are, and you are right about the blue and white – it just takes your breath away. Thanks for sharing them.
Stunning photos, Jo!
Thanks Barb. Beware, I took over 570 photos on this trip! I suspect there’ll be more to come…
Bring it on!
Stunning post, Jo – but tell me more about how it was that Porto’s artisans, or their commissioners came up with this style of decoration?
Thanks, Meredith. My knowledge was limited to the Moorish connection and the fact that the tiles were used as a means of keeping the houses cool, so I’ve been to my friend Wikipedia and am delighted with the article I found there.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azulejo
Fabulous – thanks for that Jo! I should have done that myself, i suppose but as it turns out now we”re both much more well educated …
it would take me days to absorb what’s there! it’s so beautiful! thanks for posting this! z
You’re so welcome, Lisa. (I hope it’s Lisa? I’m a bit forgetful these days. Maybe I should’ve said Zee) It’s one of those posts I’m always going to enjoy looking back on.
si.. lisa, lees, z.. thanks, i have always loved the blue/white combos, and we can thank the brilliant geniuses from earlier times who produced such labors of love. z
Great photos – haven´t been to Porto yet, it´s on the list!
It has so much character, it’s well worth the trip north. (or south, depending on your start point)
Thanks for this lovely post. My grandmother had a collection of the blue and white Willow pattern too, so this brings back lots of happy memories!
Hey, welcome to my world! Many thanks for taking the time to comment.
I love these old churches
I never saw so many in one place, including 2 that were “joined at the hip”! Fabulous place.
How beautiful! Febulous shots.
Thanks Amy. It’s a good job it wasn’t the good old days of film. I’d have been constantly reloading!
I’ve always loved the blue and white porcelain as well – I’ve never seen it as part of a building – just gorgeous!
There was so much of it, Patti, and all lovely.
It’s been such a pleasure to read this post
How are you Jo?
Glad you enjoyed it , Paula. Good thanks, if a little sad to be back with these heavy, grey skies. Living on memories for a little while.
How gorgeous, Jo!
It really was, Cath.
Great post Jo and blue is my favourite colour.
Thanks David. Not doing too badly for blue are we, so long as you discount the rain, and thunder and lightening!
I love the blue and white! So beautiful!!
Thanks Sherry. I love it too!
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Wow!I had no idea Portugal had all these tiles, they remind me of Delft in the Netherlands, which is where I associate blue and white tiles with, but these are absolutely stunning.
Hi Lorna! Yes, they’re gorgeous aren’t they? Part of the reason I fell in love with Portugal in the first place. Yes, there is a connection to Delft. There are a couple of links in my comments to the Wikipedia “Azulejo” page which is really interesting.
An inspiring, priceless blue and white work of Art. I am so amazed of how they did it and of the gifted talent behind each piece. Thanks for sharing a post so beautiful.
Tnanks Mr. B. I could not believe how many of these works of art there were in Porto. It is such a beautiful city, though shabby and down at heel in places. A combination that would make you smile, I know.
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Stunning! I am a fan of blue & white porcelain too, but have never seen such an abundance in one place ever! Shall have to nudge up Porto on my bucket list
Really, I keep on about it, but it is a great city, Madhu.
Absolutely glorious photos and magnificent architecture. I’ve wanted to visit for years, but the last time we were in Portugal (Sintra/Lisboa) it was so wet that we were getting sick of the weather and didn’t feel like going any further north so we never made it. Must try harder next time!
Yes, there’s a large element of luck with the weather up there, and it changes your viewpoint completely. It’s strange, both Michael and myself felt a sort of “northern affinity” with Porto. It’s definitely “rough round the edges” so might suit you too.
Haha! I do hope you are careful who you say that one to. Some people might take it the wrong way
It was designed with you in mind. No offence!
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Aaaaah! Stunning. My Royal Copenhagen and I love this! The outside of the bdlg on Rue Flores is beee-u-ti-ful!
That’s just how I felt, Cindy!
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